Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia September 29, 1978
Fall is so fabulous. Even in the gloom and mist – the typical autumn weather here – the colours of the trees – the maples especially, but also the birches, spruce, jack-pines – are so vivid and beautiful. The valley is a broad and rolling patchwork of farm fields and forest, apple orchards, corn and cows. Lots of touristy spots – motels, craft shops, and canteens. But everything has been done so tastefully – almost quaintly – the buildings are mostly white with black or coloured trim, tidy and well-kept. This is a well-established place with a warm and friendly feel to it. Farms have names like 'Shady Oaks', and 'Long Rest'.
The sun came out, and I stopped in an old logging area to dry the tent and play some flute.
Then took a walk in the forest, taking time to examine the bark of the various trees – how different they all are – and to feel their textures. Observed more closely leaves, lichens, and mosses. Marvelling at and reveling in the shapes, colours and textures of this wonderful fall forest. Not wanting to leave it behind, I snatched three sprigs of maple – yellow, orange and red – and attached them to the aerial of my car, a brilliant reminder of fall, fabulous fall!
Carrying on down the valley through the lovely little towns of Clarence, Newport, Annapolis Royal. Beautiful estate homes with leaded windows and glassed-in porches. Weathered stone walls surrounding manicured landscapes of lawns, big old oaks and willows. And at least a couple of white deck-chairs out front, inviting a moment of relaxation, time to enjoy the quiet, peaceful, serene landscape. Some of the homes had discreet signs beside their winding driveway – advertising an office or store. I wondered what it would be like to actually live and work here. But for this coast-raised kid, it’s too far from the ocean. I drove on.
We drive on through fields of low grass and some very low, almost moss-like red ground cover. In the late afternoon sun, the hills form giant red waves, cresting towards the red-orange forest above and beyond until they were met abruptly in a startling, contrasting line, dividing them from the blueblue sky.
We arrive at yet another deserted campground – the 'House of Roth' – which a friend had recommended, saying it was a ‘fantastical’ place. And it is. At one time this was a thriving family campground: there were horses here, and a pool. But now the barn and pool are empty. Fortunately the trails, once used by horses and hikers alike, are still there. And walking down a short one leads to a lovely little beach. We’ve pitched our tent in a forest of birch, spruce, maple and alder.
And now there’s not a cloud in the blueblue sky.
The late afternoon sun warms me as I sit in a grassy enclave.
A gentle breeze whispers and sighs through the upper branches of the trees,
The redred leaves of the big maple rustle a restless tune.
A nearby brook harmonizes with its quiet rocky melody.
Dusty and I are alone together again and happily so.
We sit together and enjoy the sights and sounds of nature.
We are deeply content, and satisfied,
Glad to be here now, to just be here.
The birds are singing good-night (or ‘this is my nest so keep out!’) to one another. Our fire is popping, crackling and rumbling. I gaze at the fire and let the myriad images of my trip so far – the places, people, experiences, sights and sounds – play their images across the landscape of my mind. I imagine possibilities, try to see myself in this place or that, doing this or that. And as usual think about what next? What next? One thing I know for sure: it is getting colder. If I am going to keep camping here in Canada, I’m going to need more and better gear. The other thing I know, or rather feel, deeply and with that sense of certainty that feels like a message from the gods, is that I want to keep on traveling. I’m not done yet.
If ‘Discover Canada: Discover Yourself’ is true, what about ‘Discover the World’? Will that discover – uncover, expose, draw out, nurture, create – other parts, aspects, versions of myself? Are there other mes in there, waiting to come out?



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